R: Recycling

Discarded cans, plastic bottles, car tyres, fire brigade hoses, TV’s, fake suede car seats. The fashion industry has been able to recycle lots of unlikely products into new must-haves. In many cases, those bags, belts or shoes don’t even look like they were made from waste materials.

What’s more, with rising cotton prices, an increasing number of mainstream brands and discounters (including Puma and H&M) have come to opt for recycled fabrics, such as recycled cotton and recycled polyester. Those are not bad options for the environment, as the re-use of textile waste reduces the need for new fiber production and decreases the use of energy resources. For this reason, the Made-By environmental benchmark on fibers favors materials such as recycled nylon, recycled polyester, recycled cotton and recycled wool alongside sustainable materials such as biocotton, lyocell, organic linen and organic hemp.

Recently, even fashion retailers have come to embrace recycling. Marks & Spencer proclaimed shwopping to be the new shopping. The retailer encourages its customers to donate an old item of clothing to charity every time they come into the store to buy something new. M&S works together with Oxfam to resell, reuse or recycle these donations. The retailer aims to develop a closed loop system that reduces textile waste to a minimum. That would certainly be no luxury as every year, approximately 1 billion clothes in the UK end up as landfill.

Are other retailers likely to follow into the footsteps of the M&S shwopping initiative? Perhaps the introduction of the Swop-box will persuade them to do so. This recycling bin, designed especially for fashion stores, enables consumers to hand in their old clothes in exchange for a discount coupon for a new purchase.

And there are other recycling initiatives in the retail sector. In 2012, Puma claimed to have opened the first sustainable store on earth. The Bangalore shop has been furnished with recycled wood. The building uses recycled steel from old electronics, bicycles, and tiffin boxes, along with porotherm blocks made using waste from the annual desilting of the lakes in Kunigal.

S: Sustainable shoes in all shapes and sizes

The growing popularity of sustainable fashion has not left the world of shoes untouched. And that means there is now a vast array of eco & fair shoes available in stores worldwide. But be aware of greenwashing. Not every shoe advertised as green is as environmentally friendly as it may appear at first sight. Plus: according to a 2012 SOMO report, child labor is not uncommon in leather production in low wage countries. And in a study of 70 international shoe brands, the Dutch ranking website Rankabrand.nl found that more than half were insufficiently transparent about their sustainability policies.

Check out Tomorrow’s Wardrobe list of favourites & forerunners in people & planet friendly shoes.

The greenest choice for animal lovers
Collections that have been produced by fair trade communities and small producers using organic and animal-friendly materials, including natural rubber and organic cotton. This is what British shoe brands Bourgeois Boheme and Beyond Skin have in common. And they are not the only shoe labels that aim to reconcile environmental concerns, fair production, a love for animals, and style. Cri de Coeur, OlsenHaus, Vegetarian shoes, Neuaura, Love Is Mighty, Mink and Novacas also embrace earth friendly materials such as hemp, organic cotton, natural rubber, recycled fake suede and fake leather. And let’s not forget Stella McCartney, who has created a true luxury collection of leather free shoes.

Heroes in recycling
In September 2012, Spanish shoe brand Snipe launched the Snipe 100, claiming it to be the first completely compostable shoe. In fact it was the Dutch label OAT Shoes who made the first. The first collection of these ‘shoes that bloom’, as they are advertised, won an award at the 2010 Green Fashion Competition. Included in each pair of OAT Shoes is a small dose of flower seeds, which means that the shoes will transform into flowers once they have been thrown away.
Snipe may not have been the first to produce a fully biodegradable shoes, the brand nevertheless makes serious efforts to greenify its supply chain. For instance, its plastics are made from recycled PET-bottles and all metal parts on shoes are nickel-free.

Not as green as it may seem
Chrome-free tanned leather is often presented as an ecological alternative to conventional leather. Leather is usually tanned with chrome, toxic chemicals that are harmful to the environment and make leather non-biodegradable. But according to committed environmentalists, naturally tanned leather is only marginally better for our planet. Leather is often produced in low wage countries under dubious circumstances – not only for the animals, but also for the workers. For example, in its 2012 field study, SOMO found that 12, 13 and 14 year old children play a central role in the leather and shoe industry in India, Brazil, China and Vietnam, which produce for all major European brands. And Greenpeace has repeatedly reported on illegal leather production in Brazil, which involves deforestation in the Amazon, labor exploitation and land grabbing.
Because they still use leather, shoe brands such as Think!, Swedish Hasbeens and Camilla Norrback are probably not as green as they may wish to have us believe. The Belgium shoe brand Brako honestly admits: chrome free leather, water based glues and production within the European Union can only be regarded as the first steps towards minimizing the environmental impacts of our shoes. From this perspective, it’s hopeful that in June 2012, CEO Jochen Zeits announced that Puma should stop using leather in its collections. (He also said we should all stop eating meat, by the way).

Shoes for a better life
The idea behind shoe brand Toms is as simple as it is heartwarming. For every pair of shoes we buy, Toms gives away a pair to a child in need. The brand was launched in 2006 by Blake Mycoskie after he visited Argentina and noticed many children didn’t wear shoes. Within five years, Toms had grown into a company designing 175 styles of men’s, women’s and children’s shoes, selling these in 30 countries and helping children in 26 countries worldwide. Today, the one for one principle has been expanded to include Toms eyewear, and has been copied by Warby Parker amongst others.
In the Netherlands, flip-flops brands Plakkies achieved some success with its do good shoe collections. The unisex sandals, which were launched in 2008, were made in South Africa using recycled car tyre. Part of the proceeds were donated to KidsRights, which supports children in developing countries. The brand was re-launched in 2011 as Kadangas. While its mission to promote recycling and fair trade in South Africa has remained unchanged, the sandals collection has developed into more versatile collections for both women and men.

Slow shoe design
As the slow fashion movement gains momentum, even shoe brands are thinking of ways to make their designs transseasonal. For example, as part of the brand’s sustainability agenda, Snipe’s designer team aim to make each collection worth looking at and wearing for a long time. And dedicated fans of Simple Shoes tended to applaud the versatility and strength of these sustainable casuals.

S: Stop shopping

They call themselves Fashion Heroes and have pledged to refrain from buying any new clothes or accessories for three months. Their mission: to detox their closets and the fashion industry. In Fall 2012, eight young Dutch fashion lovers launched the Fashion Against Toxics campaign to make a statement against the use of toxic chemicals in the textile industry. On their Facebook page, they share their stories and experiences, and publish the best tips & tricks for a green wardrobe.

Fashion Against Toxics may be unique in its fight against the hazardous chemicals associated with clothing production, its attempt at three months without shopping is not new. In the Netherlands, the Free Fashion Challenge, which was launched in 2010, became a true catalyst for consuming less. In the first edition, 27 fashionistas promised to not buy any new clothes for a year. Only 19 of them managed to keep this promise. Nevertheless, the second edition started off with hundreds of participants. The Free Fashion Challenge website supports their efforts with, amongst other things, expert advice and swapping tips. A wardrobe clean out is one of the first activities that participants of the Free Fashion Challenge engage in – this is meant to make clear that they do in fact possess lots of clothing that they may use or swap during their year of non-shopping.

The Free Fashion Challenge is reminiscent of initiatives like Six Items Or Less, which challenges consumers to use only six items in their wardrobe for a month. This experiment is designed to make fashionistas more mindful of their clothing, develop creative solutions to environmental issues in the fashion world, and promote living with less. Anyone who likes to try out a more encompassing sustainable lifestyle can also join initiatives like No Impact Week or Buy Nothing Christmas.

And let’s not forget that it’s possible to remain stylish, good-looking and fashionable while consuming less. Sheena Matheiken, whose The Uniform Project celebrated the versatility of the little black dress, is the prime example. And for fashionistas who like to clean out their wardrobes on a regular basis, vintage stores, swapping parties and online swaps are a must-do. Because as Sheena Matheiken has not failed to point out, in order to create a truly sustainable earth, it is necessary to engage in a lifestyle change rather than join a week, month or even yearlong project.

S: Shoes - greenify them too

Shoe lovers tend to be dedicated shoppers. (Yes, I'm guilty too). So how can they greenify their shoe collection? There are lots of sustainable initiatives from the fashion world that are relevant to the shoe industry as well. Just think of fairtrade fabrics, ecological production, slow fashion, upcycling, and cradle to cradle. And consumers who embrace swapping, vintage, consuming less and investment dressing are of course fully engaging in the sustainable style revolution.

As my book on sustainable fashion has demonstrated, there’s a simple basic principle for a green wardrobe: buy what you really need, what is really well-made and what is really beautiful. Needless to say, this type of shopping advice is relevant to shoe lovers with a conscience as well. The same is true for the advice to prioritize outlet shopping, tailor made products, and borrowing or hiring items that you expect to wear only once (such as bridesmaid dresses or the latest it-bag) – these are all relatively planet friendly shopping methods that are applicable to the wonderful world of shoes as well.

Perhaps the most remarkable fact about sustainability in our shoe consumption is that a large part of its environmental impact results from the way we wear our stilettos, flats and boots. That’s why it’s a good idea to take good care of your favorite shoes (hello, sneakers for commuting to work!), to repair a broken heel instead of throwing away an entire pair of shoes, and to sell or swap unwanted items (we all have tons of great looking shoes that we never ever wear, don’t we?). And surely even the most shop addicted shoe lover will be able to do this...

S: Sleeping naked and other green fashion advice

As loyal readers of this blog (erm, are there actually any of you out there?) may have guessed by now, Sleeping naked is green has been a great inspiration for me. So I can’t help but share some of my favorite challenges from the book with you.

I assume everyone who’s concerned about their energy bill (or about their lack of sleep) will be easily won over by two of Vanessa Farquharson’s lifestyle changes: sleeping naked (which saves on washing and hence the use of that electricity slurping washing machine) and sleeping a lot (which, at least in winter time, keeps the thermostat low). But there are plenty more appealing ideas.

In the laundry department, why not consider:
40. Changing over to a natural laundry detergent.
122. Limiting ironing time/heat.
230. Letting clothes air-dry on a rack, not in the dryer.
255. Using old socks and T-shirts for dish rags.
336. Using a natural pumice stone to remove pilly fluff from sweaters instead of sending them to the drycleaners.
353. Tucking pants into boots/socks to prevent them getting dirty.
189. Wearing items of clothing twice or more, as long as they’re not dirty or smelly.

While shopping, have you ever thought of:
88. Always asking for no receipt.
320. Shopping at green malls.
20. Giving up disposable tissues, using handkerchiefs.
274.Using an all-natural shoe polish, like coconut oil.
281.Having a regular inside day, staying at home and not buying anything.

For anyone enjoying a good bit of activism, check out:
60. Spending part of each day learning about environmental issues.
79. Weekly lobbying, letter-writing and petitioning on behalf of various environmental campaigns.
84. Making sure there’s always at least one ‘green’ element in gifts.
139. Giving regularly to a green cause.
282. Adding an eco-friendly tip to the standard email signature.
328.Commenting on other people’s decisions that aren’t very green, educating them about why it’s important to consider alternatives.

Are you still browsing this blog? Oh, go on, get ready to take action! Or at least to go to bed.

T: Take care

Take care of your clothes and use them as long as you can. That’s concept designer and fashion communicator Hasmik Matevosyan’s green message. The line of reasoning in her project Clothes relationships is as follows. If we covet our clothes, they retain their quality for a longer period of time. And as we all know, the long-term use of clothes minimizes their environmental impact. What’s more, the space of time creates the opportunities for special relationships between clothes and their wearer. Again, the environment will benefit because a loving attitude towards our wardrobe is a clear counterbalance against the current trend in fast fashion and its concomitant throwawayism.

Clothes relationships calls for a mindswitch among consumers. Initiatives in sustainable fashion tend to focus on the production phase, even though environmental impacts of use and disposal are equally important. An ethically made, eco-friendly garment will not reduce our ecological footprint if it ends up on the landfill after a short period of use, will it? That’s why the Clothes relationships project aims to create an awareness of environmental issues at stake in the current global fashion industry as well as a full appreciation of our buys and wardrobe.

On her website Hasmik Matevosyan collects stories about people who foster a special relationship with their outfits. A street musician tells about his love of hats. A South African immigrant living in the Netherlands tells about the traditional scarf she has brought from her home country. And Hasmik herself writes about books that inspire her and shares advice about taking care of your clothes.

Addressing designers in particular, Matevosyan's website describes how consumers could become part of the fashion creation process. Online information about production and stores offering production on demand are central to this so-called relational design. In that way, designers can contribute to high quality relations between a garment and its wearer and hence indirectly reduce the environmental impacts of the fashion industry. But of course in the end, it’s up to us consumers to choose the greenest option.

T: Transseasonal fashion

With fast fashion brands making 30 or even 50 collections per year, the traditional fashion seasons appear to have become obsolete. What’s more, the popularity of fast fashion has made luxury labels and designer brands accelerate their production as well. The average fashion company now presents not just two or four collections per year, but also a cruise collection (between spring and summer), prefall collection (between autumn and winter), midseason or even prepre collection (at any other, apparently random time of year). The slow fashion movement has been fierce criticasters of this trend, claiming that the current pace of fashion creates overconsumption and throwawayism (and hence, the ever growing landfill space).

As slow fashion has become ever more mainstream, its tenets have come to include not just timeless design and high quality products but also a concern with transseasonal items. For instance, slow fashion designers have produced multifunctional clothes that can be used in several seasons. Think of a summer skirt that can be elongated to serve as an autumn dress. Or a cotton, waterproof coat that is suitable on rainy days in spring and summer as well as autumn.

Transseasonal design also relates to the timing of new collections. For Dutch designer Elsien Gringhuis, the pressure to present four or more new collections per year puts at stake her sense of creativity and her ambition to deliver high quality outfits. Because fashion stores expect at least two new collections per year, Gringhuis delivers two collections consisting of fewer items. In a similar vein, slow fashion pioneer Rianne de Witte designs one collection each year, which is presented in spring and fall.

Some designers oppose the idea of seasonal collections as such. For example, in 2012, young designer Sanne Jansen decided to make no more than twenty items per year, which remain available in her online store for several seasons. Each month, two new items hit the stores – one for men and one for women. Each item will be made until all fabric is used up, which has the positive environmental side-effect of preventing unused materials from being discarded.