Showing posts with label fur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fur. Show all posts

7/04/2014

A: Animals in fashion


Massages for horses, designer wear for dogs, aroma therapy for cats. Thanks to a growing wellness industry, we’re able to pamper our pets in unprecedented ways. (Antidepressants for rabbits, anyone?). But while we spoil Beauty, Buddy and Tiger, our daily outfit is far from animal friendly. And we’re not just talking about fur here.

Just think about the ubiquitous jeans. Every year, about 50 billion pairs of jeans are made worldwide. In the Chinese town of Xintang, the effects of the large-scale production of denim have become clearly visible. The rivers and lakes in the vicinity of the city, which produces some 260 million jeans every year, have come to be colored the darkest of blues – the result of (illegal) dumping of dyes and chemicals. Needless to say, these toxic chemicals have negative effects on the environment, and are life threatening to fish and other waterlife.

And the fashion industry poses other threats to the world’s aquatic life as well. One clothing item made of polyester can emit more than 1900 fibers per wash – and these all add up to the island of plastic waste that is floating somewhere between Australia and Africa. Experts estimate that every year about 100.000 sea mammals and one million sea birds die as a result of this plastic soup.

Do woolen jumpers offer viable alternatives to polyester tops? That’s doubtful. Traditional wool production in Australia is based on large-scale cattle farming which involves practices such as mulesing and tail cutting. Closer to home, wool is largely a byproduct of the meat industry – with all the hormones and antibiotics that come with it.


What about silk, you wonder? In order to produce silk, caterpillars are cultivated and then boiled alive. Only in the production of so-called peace silk are caterpillars’ pods harvested after the butterflies have outgrown them, which means no animals die in the process. But because peace-silk creates fabrics of lower quality than conventional silk, it’s rather rare in the fashion industry.

When it comes to shoes and accessories, animal lovers better pay attention too. Leather production does not only involve a lot of hazardous chemicals and, in some low wage countries, child labor. For animals, it’s no fun either. Reports by international research organizations have repeatedly shown that in India, which produces leather for amongst others European shoe brands, illegal factories tend to skin cows alive. Producers of fake Uggs have been accused of illegally killing raccoon dogs.

And if this weren’t too much bad news already, there is of course jewelry made of pearls and ivory. Even though the ivory trade in Africa and China has been forbidden since the 1980s, illegal trade has continued. The African elephant is now one of the most endangered species on the continent.


Now let’s not spoil the average World Pet Day with too many depressive thoughts. Because there’s also good news.
Greenpeace has convinced labels such as G-Star, C&A, H&M, Nike and Adidas to put an end to clothing factories dumping hazardous chemicals in rivers and lakes. Because the global clothing industry is based on a large number of subcontractors, it’s unlikely the production process will be cleaned up in a few years. But the ambition is to end pollution in 2020 at its latest.

The fight against the plastic soup has so far focused primarily on reducing the use of bags and packaging. But experts have called upon fashion brands and washing machines producers to develop new methods to prevent plastic fibers from being emitted during consumer washing. Until they do, we’d better avoid buying polyester and fleece cloths and minimize washing the polyesters that we already own.

In the case of wool, consumers can also make a positive difference. Organic wool production is more animal friendly than conventional cattle farming. Sheep (and goats as well) are kept with ample space to graze, fed with organic food and not treated with antibiotics. What’s more, mulesing is not allowed in organic farms. Clothes made from organic (or even recycled) wool are therefore a good choice for animal lovers who just love the look & feel of wool.

Finally, let’s not forget that there are plenty of imitation fabrics that are animal friendly as well as comfortable to wear and stylishly fashionable. Think: imitation silk, faux leather, fake suede and imitation pearls. Linen, rubber and hemp all provide excellent fabrics for shoes. Creative producers are even working towards bioengineered, i.e. labgrown, animalfree leather. And let’s face it: who really needs real fur to keep warm in our rainy climate?

F: Facts & Figures


You may be vaguely aware of the fact that a green clothing style is not something you’d need to consider some time in a distant future. But maybe – probably? – the urgency of greenifying your closet has not come home to you quite yet. Fret not. Here are some facts & figures that make clear the importance of working towards a sustainable lifestyle. Once you’ve read them, is there still an excuse for not taking immediate action?

According to research by Elizabeth Cline, Americans buy an average of one new clothing item per week.
Almost half of the American population (48%) trash re-usable clothing, says USAgain.
Less than a third of US consumers (31%) is prepared to pay more for environmentally friendly clothing, according to a 2011 study. A staggering 49% say they're definitely not to willing to pay extra.

In 2012, a UK study found that in the average British household 30% of clothing has not been worn for a year. This equals 1.7 billion unused items.
One in five Britons are wearing items only once before throwing them away, a survey of 2200 UK consumers by M&S found in spring 2012.
In 2001, two Guardian journalists calculated that a pair of jeans sold in the UK had travelled 40.000 miles and visited 13 different countries before hitting the store.

One in five Dutch citizens admitted in 2012 not knowing which clothing is suitable for donating.
Dutch consumers tend to use their jeans for a considerable amount of time. In 2010, the lifespan of a pair of jeans in a Dutch closet was 1 to 3 years.
According to a 2012 survey, 89% of female consumers in the Netherlands prefer sustainable clothing to conventional fashion.

According to estimates, the production of a woolen suit requires the use of 685.000 liters of water.
It is estimated that in cases where production is out sourced to a developing world country, workers' wages only account for between 0.5 to 4% of the final retail cost of a garment.
During the production of a clothing item, 15% of the fabric will be binned, says Sass Brown in her book 'Ecofashion'.
Textile waste takes up 5% of the global landfill space.
A large part of carbon emissions (70%) related to clothes results from consumer behavior, not the production of cotton or distribution.
An average clothing item can be washed 52 times before it’s worn out.
Every year, approximately 50 million animals worldwide are killed for fur. This includes an estimated two million cats and dogs.
The environmental impact of one kilo fur is five times as big as the climate impacts of one kilo of textiles.

K: Killer fashion


Change has to be subtle. When a woman alters her look too much from season to season, she becomes a fashion victim. This is, according to Terry Agins’ ‘The end of fashion’, a statement by Georgio Armani . Pitiable as fashion addicted women may be, there are more victims of the fashion industry.

According to a 2012 documentary, every hour one cotton former in India commits suicide. Other estimates suggest that the wave of so-called GM genocide in India means that suicides occur every 30 minutes. The cotton farmers are desperate because they cannot pay back the loans that have been forced on them by seed companies. Crop yields tend to be lower than promised, which makes it impossible for farmers to return the 7% interest rates.

Casualties also occur in other clothing production countries. For example, in Uzbekistan, every year almost 2 million children are forced to pick cotton during harvest season. Child labor is not uncommon in other parts of the world either. Dutch research centre SOMO has repeatedly shown that garments for several US and European brands and retailers are being produced by young girls in the South Indian region of Tamil Nadu under exploitative working conditions.

And then there are of course animal victims. In Defence of Animals claims that 50 million animals are killed for fur on a yearly basis. Animal lovers will also be sad to hear about the many stories about mulesing. And did you know about illegal leather production in India, where cows (yes, those animals considered holy in that very same country) are skinned alive?

Knowing all this, it’s laudable that Puma has made tentative steps to diminish the use of leather in its sneaker collections. This could turn out to contribute to the welfare of people in the lothing production industry as well. Because not only animals suffer in current shoe production practices. The hazardous chemicals that are widely used to tan leather also negatively affect workers’ health and lives. I wonder if Mr. Armani is aware of the thousands of animals and people that are the true victims of the global fashion industry?