J: Jeans

Eco-chic is a paradox, says Sandy Black. And that seems particularly true when we look at sustainable denim. Having a history as workwear, jeans have originally been long-lasting garments. But today, denim has become a trend item that is likely to be thrown away before it’s worn out.

There are other reasons why jeans are not the most likely candidates for green fashion. Denim is generally made from cotton, which is infamous for having negative environmental impacts. The ecological footprint of a pair of jeans tends to be even bigger than the energy consumption of your average cotton garment. In order to give jeans its classic blue color, an above average amount of water, chemicals and dyes are used. In addition, jeans production is characterized by a global distribution system that inevitably leads to considerable carbon emissions. In 2001, two British journalists calculated that a pair of jeans sold in the UK had travelled no less than 40.000 miles (65.000 kilometers) – and had visited a total of 13 different countries – before it reached an Ipswhich store.

And the production of a pair of jeans affects people just as much as our planet. As Greenpeace campaigns have demonstrated, denim factories in China producing for Western brands such as G-Star, C&A and H&M have repeatedly engaged in illegal dumping of waste water. This affects the health of water life in rivers and seas as well as the well-being of local communities that are dependent upon these for their water supplies.

Sandblasting is another pressing issue in the denim industry. This popular method aimed at giving jeans a worn look has serious health consequences for factory workers. Sandblasting can even lead to death, resulting from chronic lung diseases.

Now before you get depressed and ban jeans from your wardrobe: there are numerous initiatives to make the industry greener and fairer. Labels as diverse as Kuyichi, H&M, C&A and Nudie Jeans include organic cotton in their denim collection, thus reducing the toxicity of jeans fabrics. Replay, Girbaud and Levi’s experiment with water saving dyeing methods. And in 2011, G-Star launched its first unique denim collection made from (part) nettle.

Textile recycling provides another perspective on sustainable denim. Brands such as Kings of Indigo have incorporated the re-use of second-hand clothing and fabric in their day to day business. Customers can donate their worn items which will be re-used in new collections. And by re-using previous collections, denim brands avoid having to resort to sandblasting: the vintage look is of course the logical result of pre-used textiles.

Are you anxious to start greenifying your denim style? There’s no need to start flashing your credit card. The environmental impact of a pair of jeans relates for 50% not to its production but to its use phase. This means that you can significantly reduce the ecological footprint of your favorite jeans by washing it sparsely and at low temperatures, wearing it for many years , and donating it to charity after extensive use. And to make this lifestyle change easier, it is recommended to buy jeans that are likely to stand the test of time. Such as instant classics made by Levi’s, Denham the Jeanmaker or Atelier Tossijn. I bet you’ll be looking eco-chic!

V: Vintage

‘The idea that second-hand and recycled items pass on their life experiences is what imbues redesigned clothing with its sense of value. When wearing a pre-owned item of clothing it is as if you inherit a history of lived experiences,’ writes Sass Brown in her book Ecofashion. Just like recycled items and upcycled outfits, vintage fashion gives its wearers a sense of history and previous lives. According to Brown, these feelings explain the immense popularity of vintage fashion in the United Kingdom: the British are frontrunners when it comes to a love of history and a culture of crafts.

Of course, Sass Browns description of the value and beauty of vintage makes abundantly clear that not any old or second-hand item can be labeled vintage. As another renown ecofashion expert, Kate Fletcher, has demonstrated, in the past twenty years the supply of second-hand clothing has come to surpass demand. Our overconsumption of cheap fast fashion goes hand in hand with quick disposal, creating a supply of second-hand clothes that only seems to find a market in Africa, Eastern Europe and other emerging economies.

At the same time, vintage is becoming ever more popular in fashion conscious Western countries. High quality clothing in perfect condition originating from the 1920s to 1990s is a treasure to hunt for. Cari Heathcote, a British marketing expert and blogger, believes that the trend is destined to stay. Vintage stores and high quality charity shops cater for consumers who are looking for unique outfits as well as for the growing number of green-minded fashionistas seeking to minimize the environmental impact of their closets.

Given the fact that true vintage is unlikely to be readily available to the masses, the trend seems destined to remain the prerogative of a relatively small group of fashion lovers. They will be prepared to spend time and money to find the treasures among the trash. Thankfully, the rest of us don’t need to despair. Second-hand items that are not suitable for the vintage market can be upcycled into new must-haves. And vintage inspired designers (read: brands such as Urban Outfitters, Karen Miller and Laura Ashley) provide new collections with the look & feel of past fashions. This option may not be as green or cheap as re-using second-hand clothing, but at least it will save you lots of time spent on shopping and DIY.

Z: Zero Plastic Week

As an ecofashionista who’s joined Zero Plastic Week for the second time in a row, I’m up for a challenge. So let’s go beyond the fight against plastic wraps of cucumber, tofu, toothpaste and the like. Because once we take a look at our daily outfits and weekly clothing shopping sessions, it becomes obvious that plastic plays a major role in our wardrobes.

Obviously, the average fashion store is not a particularly plasticfree environment. It’s plastic bags, price tags and clothes hangers galore. The basic step for those striving towards a low plastic lifestyle? Consume less, or go vintage or thrift shopping. And, of course: keep those foldable, reusable shopping bags within reach at all times.

The thing is: a more hidden plastic world lies behind our closets at home. And I’m not talking about those raincoats or fleece vests here. The average wardrobe consists of 50% of polyester items. (The other half is cotton; unfortunately a not so environmentally friendly fabric either). In many cases, natural fibers such as cotton and silk will be blended with nylon or lycra to make them more durable or to give them a better fit. In addition, the availability of contemporary high quality polyesters – which are not as uncomfortable to wear or cheap looking as their predecessors – means that even designer wear can now be made from artificial fibers.

What’s wrong with the abundance of polyesters in our closets, you may ask? The most important issue when it comes to plastic in clothes concerns our washing routines. Every time we wash an item made from polyester, some 1900 plastic fibers end up in the oceans and seas. And once there, the microplastics contribute to the deadly plastic soup.

Even for dedicated ecofashionistas like myself, dressing in style while supporting the fight against the plastic soup is not an easy feat. My search for animal friendly alternatives to leather bags inevitably seems to lead to plastic. For example, slow fashion designer Ellen Willink's bags are made from recycled (plastic) banners. And let’s not forget that even Envirosax’s reusable bags are made from polyesters.

On the upside, anyone who’s seen the images of the plastic soup, and more importantly, its effects on birds and other marine animals, will be stimulated to continue to strive towards a zero plastic life. Because surely, plastic can never be fashionable.