Eco-chic is a paradox, says Sandy Black. And that seems particularly true when we look at sustainable denim. Having a history as workwear, jeans have originally been long-lasting garments. But today, denim has become a trend item that is likely to be thrown away before it’s worn out.
There are other reasons why jeans are not the most likely candidates for green fashion. Denim is generally made from cotton, which is infamous for having negative environmental impacts. The ecological footprint of a pair of jeans tends to be even bigger than the energy consumption of your average cotton garment. In order to give jeans its classic blue color, an above average amount of water, chemicals and dyes are used. In addition, jeans production is characterized by a global distribution system that inevitably leads to considerable carbon emissions. In 2001, two British journalists calculated that a pair of jeans sold in the UK had travelled no less than 40.000 miles (65.000 kilometers) – and had visited a total of 13 different countries – before it reached an Ipswhich store.
And the production of a pair of jeans affects people just as much as our planet. As Greenpeace campaigns have demonstrated, denim factories in China producing for Western brands such as G-Star, C&A and H&M have repeatedly engaged in illegal dumping of waste water. This affects the health of water life in rivers and seas as well as the well-being of local communities that are dependent upon these for their water supplies.
Sandblasting is another pressing issue in the denim industry. This popular method aimed at giving jeans a worn look has serious health consequences for factory workers. Sandblasting can even lead to death, resulting from chronic lung diseases.
Now before you get depressed and ban jeans from your wardrobe: there are numerous initiatives to make the industry greener and fairer. Labels as diverse as Kuyichi, H&M, C&A and Nudie Jeans include organic cotton in their denim collection, thus reducing the toxicity of jeans fabrics. Replay, Girbaud and Levi’s experiment with water saving dyeing methods. And in 2011, G-Star launched its first unique denim collection made from (part) nettle.
Textile recycling provides another perspective on sustainable denim. Brands such as Kings of Indigo have incorporated the re-use of second-hand clothing and fabric in their day to day business. Customers can donate their worn items which will be re-used in new collections. And by re-using previous collections, denim brands avoid having to resort to sandblasting: the vintage look is of course the logical result of pre-used textiles.
Are you anxious to start greenifying your denim style? There’s no need to start flashing your credit card. The environmental impact of a pair of jeans relates for 50% not to its production but to its use phase. This means that you can significantly reduce the ecological footprint of your favorite jeans by washing it sparsely and at low temperatures, wearing it for many years , and donating it to charity after extensive use. And to make this lifestyle change easier, it is recommended to buy jeans that are likely to stand the test of time. Such as instant classics made by Levi’s, Denham the Jeanmaker or Atelier Tossijn. I bet you’ll be looking eco-chic!