7/03/2014

Z: Zero carbon fashion


Everyone who has heard of No Impact Man (and honestly, who hasn’t?) knows all about carbon emissions, climate neutrality and the like. But what would zero carbon mean in the fashion world? A few examples provide insights in the challenges we’re facing today.

You can buy climate-neutral clothes from brands like Puma, Neurotic, Camilla Norrback, Expresso, Dweezilsfriend and DutchSpirit. In 2011, the British chain Marks & Spencer scored a first with climate-neutral lingerie. And Zara and C&A have experimented with climate-neutral stores.

So what does climate neutrality actually mean in these cases? In general, low carbon means that the CO2 levels emitted by producing and distributing the product are so low that the impact on the greenhouse effect is negligible (or, preferably, non-existent). There are three ways to make this happen. First of all, the entire production process needs to be as energy-efficient as possible. For example, some Zara branches have been fitted with movement sensors to save on lighting in parts of the store where it is not needed. Secondly, sustainable energy sources like solar energy are essential for reducing the use of fossil fuels. Enter companies that switch to green energy. And finally, the remaining CO2 emissions can be compensated for financially. Planting trees or introducing renewable energy sources like solar power in developing countries through organizations like Trees for All is a popular way to achieve this. Puma has chosen to compensate every postal shipment it sends by donating to a reforestation project in California.

Experts agree that the surest way of reducing our CO2 emissions is through energy-saving measures and investments in renewable energy. A sole focus on climate compensation brings with it the risk that environmentally unfriendly management and production methods will remain unchanged. Donating funds to a good cause is a simple and sympathetic thing to do, but it does not tackle the root of the problem.

Green fashion pioneers are facing the challenge of dealing with greenhouse emissions in energy intensive settings like retail and distribution. But the design and production phases are in need of some serious zero carbon policies as well. Half the CO2 emissions and energy consumption involved in making clothes occurs in the production phase. That’s why Kuyichi has opted for using laundries in its production countries that use waste water systems. And Nike has announced that it will be using the water-saving dyeing technique pioneered by DyeCoo, in which fabrics are dyed using and re-using CO2. Now, fashion labels that embrace innovations like these are on the right track for making their production and distribution process genuinely climate-neutral sooner or later. In the mean time, we can be inspired by No Impact Man and make our own contribution to reducing the greenhouse effect.