‘The idea that second-hand and recycled items pass on their life experiences is what imbues redesigned clothing with its sense of value. When wearing a pre-owned item of clothing it is as if you inherit a history of lived experiences,’ writes Sass Brown in her book Ecofashion. Just like recycled items and upcycled outfits, vintage fashion gives its wearers a sense of history and previous lives. According to Brown, these feelings explain the immense popularity of vintage fashion in the United Kingdom: the British are frontrunners when it comes to a love of history and a culture of crafts.
Of course, Sass Browns description of the value and beauty of vintage makes abundantly clear that not any old or second-hand item can be labeled vintage. As another renown ecofashion expert, Kate Fletcher, has demonstrated, in the past twenty years the supply of second-hand clothing has come to surpass demand. Our overconsumption of cheap fast fashion goes hand in hand with quick disposal, creating a supply of second-hand clothes that only seems to find a market in Africa, Eastern Europe and other emerging economies.
At the same time, vintage is becoming ever more popular in fashion conscious Western countries. High quality clothing in perfect condition originating from the 1920s to 1990s is a treasure to hunt for. Cari Heathcote, a British marketing expert and blogger, believes that the trend is destined to stay. Vintage stores and high quality charity shops cater for consumers who are looking for unique outfits as well as for the growing number of green-minded fashionistas seeking to minimize the environmental impact of their closets.
Given the fact that true vintage is unlikely to be readily available to the masses, the trend seems destined to remain the prerogative of a relatively small group of fashion lovers. They will be prepared to spend time and money to find the treasures among the trash. Thankfully, the rest of us don’t need to despair. Second-hand items that are not suitable for the vintage market can be upcycled into new must-haves. And vintage inspired designers (read: brands such as Urban Outfitters, Karen Miller and Laura Ashley) provide new collections with the look & feel of past fashions. This option may not be as green or cheap as re-using second-hand clothing, but at least it will save you lots of time spent on shopping and DIY.